Watch Accessories: Bracelets, Part I

Straps are a quick, inexpensive way to change the appearance and fit of a watch. Often a strap can completely change a watch's appearance.

What about bracelets?


There are possibly more different types of bracelet than straps.

Bracelets are generally more expensive than straps, but on the other hand, bracelets can enjoy a very long service life. It is true that bracelets will stretch, but good bracelets will not stretch as much as a typical leather band. Bracelets are also attractive to those with smaller wrist diameters: Bracelets can often be adjusted with more precision than a leather strap. This is not always the case, but with attention to the number of links and clasp adjustment, many bracelets can fit a narrow wrist exceptionally well.

Things to look for in a bracelet include the number of removable links, the width of removable links, type of end link, and the amount of clasp adjustment. Link material, end link type, and the number of rows within each link are also aspects to consider.

Most clasps use a top portion with many holes to draw the top bracelet half in. Clasps with closely spaced adjustment holes will allow finer adjustment, something nice to have with any bracelet. Some bracelets include an extra fold-out section intended to allow use for diving wetsuits.
Long bracelet links will obviously expand or contract length in larger units. Coupled with a limited-adjustment clasp, these bracelets will be a hit-or-miss affair in adjustment. Short-length links typically provide the best fit owing to the smaller increments of length possible.
Some of the nicest bracelets will use links that taper in width—sometimes in length, too. Such bracelets are more difficult to produce and usually reflect high quality, though some very nice fixed-width bracelets have been made.


End links can be tricky. Straight end links are usually easy to interchange, but not always.



Curved end links sometimes look straight.



End links can be elaborate to integrate with case design, and thus will be specific to particular watches:
This vintage Kreisler Stellux bracelet was found on a vintage Tissot PR516GL. It was bought with the purpose of being used on an older Tissot SeaStar. The end links fit a newer PR516 but not the older SeaStar it was meant for.



The case is just a little bit thinner on the older PR516 than on the PR516GL. It is enough of a difference to make end-link adjustment impossible.

Oddly enough, a vintage Seiko oyster-style bracelet adapted perfectly to the same Tissot.

Possibly the most important aspect about end links is how roll pins are positioned relative to the case. It is possible to bend or remove material from end links, but if the roll pins are held too far away from their case holes, it might not be possible to adapt the end links.

For example, the end links on this genuine Tissot bracelet could not be adapted to a similar vintage Tissot Navigator:


It is clear that the end links will not position the roll pins close enough to the appropriate case holes. The bracelet is also held too close to the case to allow free movement.

Though subtle, differences between end links can make the difference between having a bracelet fit or not.


There are two basic types of bracelet link, solid and folded. Solid links are usually nicer, especially those made of high-grade materials. Do not ignore folded-link bracelets, though. Most vintage bracelets use some sort of folded link design because the technology to easily machine solid links was not affordable or even available at the time.

Solid-link bracelets will probably be quieter and stretch less than a folded-link design. Most folded links employ either a sliding flat piece or a press-fit round bar for access. The sliding flat piece design is a bit more susceptible to oxidation because more of its surface area is exposed to dirt and moisture. Both designs are very stable and sturdy.

Most high-grade bracelets will employ either press-fit or screw-in bars to hold links together. Be careful, some bracelets have what appears (on nthe outside) to be a screw-in link that is actually a press-fit bar.

Always check for arrows on the back of removable links to see which direction to press out bars.

Screw-type link bars are not favored because the screw head can become stripped: The bar will need to be drilled out if this happens, not an easy task.

One of the most unique bracelets that I have come across is from a vintage Zenith:

At first glance, there appear to be no adjustable links in the bracelet, but looking in-between the end links a pair of notches are visible.
A thick roll pin can be removed using a thin tool through the notches, somewhat similar to removing roll pins from a watch case but much more tricky.
Vintage bracelets can be very expensive. Well-known marques include GF (Gay & Fréres), NSA, JB Champion, Kreisler, Forstner, even Speidel.

Some of these (NSA, GF, and JB Champion especially) can be very expensive, but they represent excellent design and will last many decades. On nice thing about bracelets (in comparison to leather straps) is that bracelets can be cleaned and restored to like-new condition. A nice bracelet will enhance the looks, comfort, and value of almost any watch.